4.21.2020

What Vacation?


"I always love you, love New York". I first heard this lyric my senior year of university. I was sitting in the living room of our North Street cottage in Chapel Hill when a very close pal, Carrington, played it for me. I was hooked. Fast forward 18 years and I now know the songs of Ryan Adams intimately as he is a favorite of Matthew's. Or at least was before his image began to tarnish some months ago. Anyways, whenever I make plans to visit New York, book a ticket or the skyline comes into view while driving into the city, this song echoes in my ears and I am transported back to that wonderful afternoon with a most dear friend. 

New York is a special place for many. The Breyer's included. My father was born and raised in Bensonhurst, Brooklyn. He attended not one but two universities there. In 1974, my parents called the bustling, busy city home. Fast forward some 45 plus years, they call it home again. Growing up, we used to visit my grandmother Irma in Rego Park, Queens as well as my grandfather in Brooklyn. We always stayed at the Waldorf Astoria (I gather thanks to Hilton points) and we children jumped on the beds of our pink and white wallpaper lined room ogling out the windows gaping onto congested and twinkling streets. 

Following graduation in 2004, Michelle officially called New York City home. From John Street to Charles Street (and a stone's throw from SJP and Ferris Bueller) to now a street identified with a number and an elevator, she has been there ever since. In 2009, after six outstanding years abroad and fueled by a serious case of heartache, I sought out to write my next chapter and a move was inevitable. I decided upon the Big Apple. I connected with my posse from my Dallas days at the Hockaday School. I reunited with my UNC pals. I found a charming alcove studio apartment on west 21st street with a wall of windows giving the feeling that I was living in a space larger than the room itself. A gentleman living across the street must have been an art collector as evidenced by the changing paintings that adorned his cavernous walls. He also hosted parties and not infrequently. There was never a dull moment living in that flat. I purchased a Fodors book prior to moving and I physically explored nearly every one of its pages.

Within a year, along came little brother Keith by way of Beijing, China. I flew to Germany for a week with my folks to meet and escort him home. For once since high school, we three children were living within ten blocks of one another. Enter Jay Z's Empire State of Mind proudly blaring out of speakers across the city. Each Sunday, mother hen (moi) insisted on family dinner at my apartment and here Keith's love for chicken tortilla soup was born. My two best friends lived there while I was there. One on the upper east side and the other in then-unchartered-lands, Brooklyn. So as you can see, New York is more than just a destination for me. It is a home away from home. When I moved to Charlotte in 2009, I always made it a point to celebrate my birthday in NYC. This began with my thirtieth and save missing one or two here or there, it has become my place to ring in each subsequent year. 

Now more than ever, we are reminded of the Big Apple. My sister, who still lives there, is experiencing day who-knows-what in quarantine with her family. We are watching Cuomo's daily press events with much interest and attention. Matthew keeps saying how much he misses NYC and what he would give to travel there (minus the pandemic). I have told him owing to the current workings of the world, I doubt we will get there this year. And when we do return, it will most likely be a very different place from our recent memories. In fact, I am not sure what vacations will look like this year. If there will be any vacations this year. We are supposed to go abroad for my Mom's 70th come December. Stay tuned.

Coronavirus not in the picture, upon arrival in the Big Apple, I always take a leisurely walk down 7th avenue for coffee in the West Village. I peer in the windows of Barney's (which has since closed, insert tear here) and Williams Sonoma. A manicure next to the famed Stonewall Inn. Reservations galore at spots I always research with gusto in the weeks leading up to my trip. I still swear by Conde Nast, Bon Appetit and Eater as my gastro bibles. The hopeful celebrity spotting at the Spotted Pig, where by the way we no longer eat owing to the unsavory activities that took place in the den of iniquity upstairs. It too has since closed. A pitstop for tacos and guac at Chelsea Market. Killer donuts on 19th street, 14th street and Morton Street. A glass of vino at Otto. Another spot ruined for us by Mario Batali. 

A long cruise down to the Meat Packing District to peer into the open garage doors of the now closed, Barbuto. A favorite for their perfectly roasted chicken, crispy potatoes and green as grass kale salad dusted with insane amounts of parmesan cheese. Afternoons in China Town for hot pot, dumplings and peering into the malodorous buckets of squirming fish. Neapolitan style pizza at Marta. In my estimation, the best in the City next to Roberta's in Brooklyn. Oysters at Grand Central Station. The definitive Diner for their incredible burgers. I first ate here one evening with two of my brother's bosom pals. As they scribbled the night's menu across our table, I was hooked. The meat feast at Cote. And if the company is eager, drinks at the Gramercy Park Hotel. Other boozehound favorites include beers al fresco at White Horse Tavern, martinis at Pete's Tavern in Gramercy, sawdust and brews at McSorley's, beer from a boot at The Standard Hotel Beer Garden or Wogies and Claudette on lower 5th for their perfect Aperol Spritz. The list goes on and on and on.

In 2011, when the winds of change blew Matthew's and mine to an intersecting point once again, he asked for my phone number but took his sweet time calling. When he finally did reach out, apparently his phone had gone missing in where of all places? New York City. Towards the end of this first year of dating, it was time to meet the family (again) and we all convened in the Big Apple for Michelle's 30th birthday soiree. Talk about halcyon times. We kicked off the weekend festivities with a family dinner (minus Ted who stayed back in Germany owing to meetings) at a beloved Yiddish spot in the East Village. I think Matthew was quite literally thunderstruck to see the amount of food the Breyer's ordered, and put back. The first of many meals together. I like to think I gave Matthew the NYC bug as over too-many-trips to count, I have shared my NYC with him, and together we have carved out our very own game plan for the City. Lower East side for ramen and bagels, Brooklyn for the parks and bars, and everywhere else in between to quite simply, explore, gorge and imbibe, though not necessarily in that order.

Recently, we found ourselves in front of the TV (what else should we do these days) whilst baby napped and a program was on with folks jumping into a cab and playing games. As B-roll footage ran, we found ourselves shouting and pointing at the screen - hey, we know that bodega. Or, that street is the one where we had our cab pull over to so we could jump out and explore. Eataly! One couple's stop was Gramercy Tavern, one of our favorites. We took the baby to the Big Apple when she was three months old but of course she doesn't remember a thing. 

I long to take her back, when my entire family is there, to experience the culture, the sights and given her appetite, the eclectic eats. Speaking of food, check out the easy Indian recipe below. Inspired by a very dear friend who brought us buttery chicken for dinner when Lucy was a baby. She and her husband were also in NYC the same time as me. Just down the street in fact. You see, all roads lead to and from Manhattan. 

Buttery Chicken

What Dreams Are Made Of

2 large breasts
4 skinless boneless thighs 
1 TBS garam masala
1 TBS cumin
1 TBS turmeric
1 pinch red pepper flakes 
1 onion chopped 
4 cloves of garlic chopped
Knob of ginger - peeled and chopped
2 TBS tomato paste
16 oz can tomato sauce
16 oz water (just fill the can)
One cinnamon stick or 1 tsp cinnamon
1 cup full fat whipping cream
1 stick of butter
Pepper and salt
Chopped cilantro

You Can Do Anything

Mix spices together and divide in half.

One half apply to the chicken in the bowl and the other half hold onto for a "New York minute."

Heat butter on medium heat and add chicken. Brown it for around ten minutes. Set aside.

Now add a bit more butter and gently cook the garlic, ginger and onion for around two minutes. Add the remaining spice mixture, cinnamon, tomato paste and stir to coat around a minute. Add the tomato sauce, water, chicken. Now, more butter. Add two tablespoons, bring to a boil and lower to a simmer, uncovered, for 45 minutes.

At this point add the cup of full fat whipping cream, mix and let cook for another 10-15 minutes.

You can serve garnished with cilantro or not. Would taste amazing over rice. We are watching the carbs during the week and enjoyed ours over cauliflower rice. You could also do broccoli rice or lentils. 

*Quick tip for preparing black lentils. All you need is one part lentils / two parts water and a bay leaf. Bring to a boil, lower to simmer, cook until water is evaporated. I like to add 2 TBS sesame oil to enhance the flavor. Then, employ as you will!
















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